There are many reasons why the bodice of a dress doesn’t fit properly. One of the simplest alterations is when the straps are too long.
Several problems occur when the straps are too long
- lack of support for the bust
- gapping in the back as the straps bow outward
- the straps fall off the shoulders
The best way to check the fit is to pin fit the straps by pulling up at the center seam of the straps. (However, not all dress have a seam at the top of the shoulder. If there is no seam at the top of the shoulder the method of alterating is differnt. 90% of the time I alter from an existing seam rather than creating a new one.)
As you can see in the picture above I pulled up from the center top of the shoulder. This particular dress was pulled up 3/4″ on each side.
After the problem is diagnosed look at the straps to examine the construction. The goal is always to put the dress back together the same way it was taken apart so that it does not appear to be altered. As you can see from there is a seam at the center top of the shoulder.
Using a seam ripper I carefully released the stitches between the lining and the fashion fabric (the outer fabric). I open a space double the length of the alteration. 3/4″ on each side of the seam = 1 1/2″ needed for the alteration. Double that is 3″. This allows me to fold the strap flatter when I put it on the sewing machine.
Once the seam is open I fold it right sides together so I can begin sewing. Notice the the needle of the sewing machine stitches 3/4″ from the original seam. This will shorten the shoulder straps the desired amount. After doing the machine stitching trim the excess seam allowance. Fold or press the seam allowance open and fold the strap back together, tucking in the seam allowance.
Pin the strap together and slipstitch the lining and fashion fabric back together. The new seam is completely unnoticable!
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