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A common problem for sport jackets or suit jackets is that the sleeves are too long. Learning to shorten jacket sleeves is not a complicated alteration.
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The first question I get asked is “What is the standard jacket sleeve length?”
The standard is for the shirt to be showing just past the sleeve of the jacket. A detailed post about how a suit jacket should fit can be found here.
I’ve included this video for further instructions about the length of the the jacket sleeves. Even if the jacket that needs to be tailored is a blazer rather than a formal suit jacket, the same basic rules apply.
If the jacket fits well in the shoulders and torso, shortening the sleeve length is one of the easiest problems to fix even if there are buttons on the sleeve. To adjust the shoulder, or arm cycle much of the suit body has to be adjusted.
What should I do if the jacket has buttons on the sleeve?
This makes it look much more complicated to fix, but if you look closer notice that many time those sleeve buttons are only stitched on. Often there isn’t even a button hole under the buttons on the sleeve. On the occasion that there is a buttonhole under the button these are usually not cut open, so I would call them a ‘faux’ buttonhole. Take care to very gently pull out the threads of the button hole.
Where do I start the alteration?
I always pin fit while on the wearer. No matter whether it is men’s tailoring or women’s dresses. It is most important to try it on the person who is going to be wearing it. Also note whether there is any difference in arm length. If someone has had a shoulder surgery or other injury one arm may be shorter than the other.
For a complete list of recommended sewing tools for alterations look here.
- Measure
Always start by using a 6″ ruler to measure the amount of the alteration. Jot this down on a piece of paper. I make this a habit because there were a few times I took out the pins without measuring and then I didn’t know how much I was supposed to alter.
2. Iron
Press the new sleeve length to form a noticable crease where you want the sleeve to end.
3. Remove buttons (refer to step 1 in image above)
Remove the buttons that are in the way of the alteration. This would be all the buttons that are turned under during your mesurement. And you will want to remove any buttons on the top that are within an inch of your new sleeve length. Leaving the buttons attached too close to where you are working will just get in your way.
4. Deattach lining
Using a seam ripper dettach the lining. (image above step 2). Once you dettach the lining you will see the interfacing inside the sleeve.
5. Iron in new interfacing
This will need to be replaced with new interfacing at the new sleeve length. Interfacing can be found on amazon.
6. Trim
Once the new interfacing is in place, fold the sleeve back to the desire length. Trim off the excess fabric, leaving yourself at least 1 1/2″ seam allowance on the inside.
7. Trim the lining, pin down and stitch.
The lining will be trim some as well. Make sure to leave some give (about 1/2″) when you sew the lining back in because you want to make sure that the there is enough room for the wearer to move their arm without tearing the lining out.
8. Reattach the buttons you previously removed.
You want abou 5/8″ to 3/4″ between the end of the sleeve and the first button. Most of the time after the alteration you sew the remaining buttons above any existing buttons.
Congrats you are well on your way to altering the clothes that don’t fit well.
For more simple alterations check out
If you are a novice seamstress you may have trouble with your stitches not catching from time to time. Be sure to grab you free troubleshooting guide. For the checklist go to the post page and scroll down to the bottom where it will tell you to click for your download.
