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When I was just starting out, I could hardly tell the difference between sewing machine needles. I had to learn over time, that the right needle makes a huge difference in your projects. Using the wrong needle for a particular fabric can damage your bobbin hook, throw off the machine’s timing, ruin your seams, break or shred the thread, punch holes in your fabric or simply just produce an inferior stitch.

We have the option to choose between different sizes and needle types. Knowing which needle works best for each project makes a huge difference in the quality of your work. With a variety of needles to choose from, you can achieve your DIY goals effortlessly. So, how do you choose the right needle for your sewing machine?

Which needle is right for your sewing machine?

Different fabrics are sewn differently. For this reason, there are different types of needles for different types of fabric. Ultimately, the needle you use is determined by the type of fabric you have, the stitching you are going for, as well as the brand of sewing machine you own.

Some needles react differently for different sewing machines. However, most sewing machines offer a variety of sewing needles that work with that specific machine. When choosing based on size, it is important to note that the European metric system numbers the sizes from 110 while the American Metric system numbers the sizes from 8 to 18. Regardless of this difference, most needle companies will have both numbering systems on their packaging. The smaller the size, the finer the needle.

While all sewing machine needles function in a majority of the sewing machines available today, overlock machines, embroidery machines and other special types of sewing machines may require different needles in order to function optimally.

Every machine has a needle system that you have to review carefully before you purchase different needles. You might not want to read the manual, but in this case, it is important that you review the manual to avoid any unfortunate mishaps.

What is the right needle size for my project?

The general rule of the thumb when choosing the best needle based on size is, the lighter the fabric, the smaller the needle size.  However, it is important to consider the type of thread you intend to use. For projects using heavy fabric such as jeans, you will need to use a heavier thread, and a bigger needle. Choosing the right thread according to the needle size will ensure that the thread does not break mid project.

• Light weight fabrics use needles ranging from size 65/9 to 75/11
• Medium weight fabrics use needles ranging from size 75/11 to 90/14
• Heavy weight fabrics use needles ranging from size 100/16 to 110/18

How to read a sewing needle size

Understanding the numbers used for sizing in both American and European metric systems ensures that you make the right choice and avoid sewing machine problems. Foe the American numbering system, the sizes range from 8 to 18 with 8 being the finest needle and 18 being the heaviest needle. For the European numbering system, the sizes range from 60 to 110 with 60 being the finest needle and 110 being the heaviest needle. On the packaging, you will see a number like 90/14 or 14/90. This means that the needle is American size 14 or European size 90. The order doesn’t affect the size. If you are ever unsure of the needle to use, you can always test the needle before you start your project.

Different types of sewing machine needles

1. Universal needle: the most common type of needle with a slightly rounded tip. It can be used on all kinds of fabric.
2. Ball point needle: has a more rounded tip compared to the universal needle. Best for tightly woven fabrics and knit fabrics.
3. Stretch needle: has a scarf, allows extra room for the hook to pass close by and prevent skipped stitches.
4. Denim needle: has an extra sharp point and is larger than most types of sewing machine needles. Best for denim or jeans.
5. Twin needle: has two needles mounted on one shaft. Used on the hems of knit or jersey fabrics.
6. Wing needle: tapers towards the needle clasp and is extended from the point up the shaft.
7. Leather needle: has a slight triangle at the point allowing it to easily punch through leather. Best for sewing leather and vinyl but not for ultra-suede.

With time, it becomes easier to identify different types of needles just by looking at them because of the differences in the point, eye, scarf, and shank

How to take care of your needles

• Always use the right needle for your project so that your needle serves you as it should and lasts longer.
• Store the needle in the original packaging. This prevents the point from becoming dull.
• If a needle skips stitches or has a slight bend to it, it is best to change the needle to avoid further damage to your fabric or sewing machine.

More Resources on Sewing Machine Needles

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